Kitty Talks Dogs: grooming Skye the Miniature Poodle | TRANSGROOM

Kitty Talks Dogs: grooming Skye the Miniature Poodle | TRANSGROOM

Hello everybody and good morning! Today
we have Skye with us. Skye is a seven year old Poodle Miniature bitch.
She’s a fantastic dog with a fantastic temperament. We are going to groom here in a T-clip.
Everything we’re going to do with the scissors. Poodles have a fantastic character. They
have a temperament. It’s a family dog. Poodles have an advantage because they don’t moult. So if you have a poodle you’ll
never have hair in the house. And you can groom them like a teddy bear. You
can groom them with the sharp muzzle. You can groom them as you want. The hair keeps growing back and you can change whenever you like. Now we’re going to watch the grooming session, enjoy! First of all, before we start I’d like to tell you:
everything I say in this video is my view. Many people have a different view so I hope
I can help you, but this is just my view. So I hope I’m saying the right things for you. Okay let’s start! I’ve never seen Skye
before and I didn’t know what I could expect. So when she arrived here the owner
went and she was very much relaxed and she had a very good temperament.
So I first made her at ease and told her nothing’s going to happen
with her and then we started to groom. So grooming Skye I had all the time in the world
and actually I just enjoyed myself grooming. So I first gave Skye a brush. So first of all I cleaned her ears. It had a lot of brown, gooey, greasy
product, you know, dirt in the ears. So first I made it dry with the powder. I’ve used two finger condoms and I’ve cleaned
out all the hair that shouldn’t be there. And I just pulled it out, most of it first of all with my fingers. And with the powder you have a lot of grip. And then I take the forceps and I take the ear
and I stretch it. Don’t pull it too hard. But when you stretch the ear upwards then
you can go deeper with the forceps. You have to be very careful with
the forceps you don’t pinch the skin. So after all the hair is gone I’ve used ear cleaner. Ear cleaner is a fantastic product it will dissolve
all the build-up, all the brown, gooey, fatty dirt. And I just pour it in there. I also stretch the ear and I pour it in there and then, you know, softly
massage at the back of the ear. So now the ear cleaner can just do its work.
It’s going to gladly dissolve all the dirt. And later you can wash it out and after it’s
washed out you can do it with a cotton cloth. And the ears are gonna be
very very clean, squeaky clean! So here we go cutting dog nails! you need a dog nail cutter, a small one for small nails, a big one for big nails. You need blood stop powder. You need
a nail grinder and a piece of paper if you have that and there is a problem you have everything by hand to properly do the dog nails. If you don’t have stop bleed
I wouldn’t advise you cutting dog nails. Because when you go too far and it starts
bleeding, the blood can go everywhere and it’s very uncomfortable for you
and for the dog and it’s not very nice. So here we go! Stop bleed!
We have a special pot to put the stop bleed in. And you just have to push it so
it’s all vertical or it’s all horizontal, sorry. And when you compress it, it’s gonna be nice and when it falls the stop bleed powder is not going to go out. So here we go cutting the dog nails. I’m going to show you a little drawing
now to see how far you can go. It’s not very nice if you leave the
dog nails too long for the dog. Because the dog can’t stretch his feet
anymore. He is forced to walk like this. So we tend to do them as short as
possible but just not in the blood. After we’ve been cutting the nails we
like to grind them so they’re nice and round. And we can even grind them shorter towards
the vein of the nail with the grinding machine. And I had a little problem there so if you can see
we just put the stop bleed on the nail. We first use the paper to dip it
so the blood goes in the paper. And then we use the stop bleed immediately. And then we push with our finger on the stop bleed
to compress the powder against the vein and it’s going to stop bleeding immediately. Okay here we go to the bath. First of all make sure the dog is relaxed and if you
leave him in the bath make sure he has a lead on. So there’s no accidents. Making shampoo! Here I’ve used approximately
500ml water and three spoons of shampoo. And it’s not cold water, the water is warm so when this
is dissolved it’s ready to go the first time in the bath. So when I wet the dog I always go around
the nose so the dog is not uncomfortable. I do with the water go over the eyes but I just
make sure there’s not too much pressure. And I always use a sponge. I like to use the sponge very
much because to me it’s a very quick way of washing. You have immediately a nice lather
and it goes very quickly. After the lather I start washing
and I wash everywhere very well. When the dog doesn’t have a problem
in his ears and I’m using good shampoo I don’t mind having shampoo in the ears. It’s also going to help dissolve all
the dirt it has in and around the ears. As long as you rinse the ears afterwards
with plain water it’s not a problem. So I like to wash the dog very well.
I have a very hard grip when I wash. And I just go over it twice the
first washing and also at the ears. I’m just very careful that there’s no shampoo in the eyes. So keep on washing. I just checked there
to see if the ears are not over over dirty. In the case it the water would have been very very black
I would have washed the ears three times. So now I’ve rinsed the dog and I’m gonna use
another batch of shampoo to wash him the second time So it’s the same thing again and now I’m
going to wash for the second time. For the washing I’m using Romance shampoo.
Romance shampoo is a hydrating shampoo. It’s got hydrating oils which is
good for skin and the coat. It’s going to lay a layer around the coat.
Some of the oils are going to go in the coat. And this is going to make my
job afterwards much easier. It’s going to be easier for brushing
and the hair is going to be nice and fluffy. And also around the eyes and around the ears
and just keep on massaging and washing and make sure all the dirt is gone. Rinsing! I like to over-rince and it’s very important
to me all the shampoo and all the soap is gone. And how do I test? I go over the dog and when it squeaks it’s like: fine.
It’s good now all the shampoo is gone. Look, you see me squeaking here. I’m always very sure the water is not too warm. And I like to rinse the eyes very thoroughly because
I’m always afraid there’s a little shampoo in the eyes and I’m afraid the dog is going to be
uncomfortable and it’s gonna sting. Because the coat was so dry I’m using the
Ultimate Show Tech conditioner, the mask. And I did that because it’s winter and, you know, the the heating is on and the dog was like very very dry. So this is what I did and I’m going to
leave it for five minutes resting. I always like to put a towel on
there and give the dog a rest. So after five minutes, rinse well.
And I don’t like it when it’s greasy or when there is still product in it
so there again I rinse very thoroughly and keep on rinsing until
I feel all the product is out. Now I’m using the Magic Towel
to get out most of the water. The Magic Towel is very absorbent. It absorbs much
more than a usual towel and it’s very fun to use. Also in grooming shops the Magic Towel is
mainly used for getting most water out of the coat. And after that, then we can use towels. The Master Blaster will blast most of the water
out of the coat and also do most of the brushing work. This is a very good tool to have. Most dogs are very afraid of the Master Blaster. But when there are used to it on a young age, using the Master Blaster, it’s no problem
to do them with the Master Blaster. Because I don’t do the Master
Blaster on the head I use the towel. For toweling just rub very well. And to see if you have enough
dried I always look in the sky and when it’s shiny, I see the water
still on my hand I keep on rubbing. When your skin is not shiny anymore
it’s because it’s enough dried. And then when you do the dryer
it won’t take so long. Okay, so just after the bath, let’s see with the
bamboo stick if there’s any more dirt in the ears. You can wet the q-tip or the bamboo
sticks with ear care product and then if there’s any more dirt in the ears, take the rest of it out. It’s very easy. It’s comfortable for the dog. And afterwards you have squeaky clean ears. So now. Most of the coat was done with the
Master Blaster but there was still too much on the feet. And I’m just gonna do the legs
now with the Master Blaster. The Master Blaster. I always make
the feet, the legs in four parts. I always do the outside first, then I go to the front and I
keep this area and then I do the inside and the back. See? I’m doing the back of the legs now. and you can see the Master Blaster
is blasting and it’s actually also brushing You can see that afterwards we won’t have
much work anymore taking all the curls out. Actually when you use the master blaster you see
a star where it’s white where the hair goes open. And this is about that much far away from the skin. And we get the star everywhere
where it’s necessary to blow out the curls and actually comb or brush the dog out. Let’s start drying! This time I’m using the Rapid Cyclone Dryer
The Rapid is my favourite dryer because it has one of the most air volume and when
you have time to spend it doesn’t matter but when you don’t have time you have to have
the most air volume in dryers and then you’ll go fast. As you can see with the Rapid Air Cyclone, I’m using the Tuffer Than Tangles teezer for the moment And the Tuffer Than Tangles
teezer is a very good brush. It’s got a very good angulation,
the pins have a very good angulation and I like this because you can stretch
the coat so it goes straight and all the curls go. The aim is to brush where the dryer opens the coat. And then you have a white star.
The white star is the skin that you see and there you need to brush to detangle
and to get all the curly out of the coat. And then you have to keep on brushing
in this area until it’s totally dry. And as you can see the legs. I’ve just done
the front now I’m doing the back or the side. I divide the legs in parts, you have the side,
the back, inside and the front. And I always do it per area. And I also like to brush against the direction of the coat:
upwards. And then I make the brush do its work. If you have a good slicker brush the angulation of
the pins will pull the hair and all the curls will disappear. Sometimes I have to curl myself and curl the nozzle
of the dryer around the dog to do it, but it’s worth it because when you do it correctly
you’re going to have a fantastic result and it’s gonna be all fluffy and soft and clean. Let’s do some clipping! OK, I’m showing here the rounding of the chest because I don’t want to follow the chest
like this. I want to stop where it goes in. So, with my clippers, with my Amigo clippers
I’m just going to go until it doesn’t go in because when you see the neck going in,
it’s not very nice so this has to be with hair So you don’t see it’s going in so much. So I’m using the Amigo clipper. The Amigo
clipper has a very fine blade on it and I like this because when you do the small works like
little feet, in between the feet, you won’t hurt the dog. So I’m going with the direction of the hair. Little feet are very sensitive and they need a proper
blade with a very fine teeth not to hurt between the toes. So here I am explaining that, first of all, I do the
top of the feet and then I go in between the toes. If you go in between the toes it’s not good
you twist the machine because this hurts the dogs. Maybe you can also test it on your
own hands to see what it does. You will be surprised. It’s going to sting. Don’t go over the little skin and twist
your machine because this hurts. So here we go! Everything on top first, around
the little nails and then nicely in between. Don’t forget the pads at the back. To do the pads in the back you can normally take the two outside fingers and like hold them nice and turn it around. But don’t take the paw too high because
that’s going to be uncomfortable for the dog. Normally it’s a natural movement when you just
twist the two fingers, the outer fingers. You just hold them with your fingers and without very much pressure. And then between the pads you
can scoop the hair out. It’s very very easy. Now don’t push too much on the
machine because this also hurts. and if you hold the paws with your
fingers instead of your whole hand and you hold tight. If you hold the paws with
your fingers the dog will let you do it. If you hold with your whole hand,
the dog wants to pull you. So please, just hold with your fingers. And if he pulls, maybe instead of you
pulling as well maybe push a little bit to tell them it’s not necessary to start pulling. So with me it works very well and
our Skye here is doing very fine for me. He’s letting me go between the toes. He doesn’t like it very much but he
still lets me go between his toes. it’s her actually. It’s her toes, sorry Skye! Okay, if you have a problem on the nails to scoop
out all the hair you can go with your finger. Just push the hair and the little hairs will
stand up and then you can take them away. So clipping the muzzle! Everything from the throat upwards
I make against direction and everything where my hand is, below my hand,
I make with the direction of the coat growth. So it’s very easy. I draw a line from the ear to the eye. And then I do this very steady and very relaxed. And I look where I am because when
it’s long hair it’s sometimes very difficult. But I have to say when you have washed
the dog before it’s much easier to clip. Although it is taking you longer. Longer to wash, longer to dry. But here you see nicely I’m making a
nice straight line from the ear to the eye And this customer or this nice lady
didn’t want to have a very small, narrow face. So I’ve left the hair on the muzzle
to grow, to have a round muzzle. There I’m using the point of the clipper on
the other direction to make the line clearer. Don’t forget to stop working and look
what you’re doing. That’s what I was doing over there. Okay let’s do some scissoring. It’s important that you know what I see
and what I’m looking at when I’m scissoring. As you can see, this bottle is straight. You see a straight
line and you see a straight line, but actually it’s round. So when I’m looking at dogs I’m
only cutting this side and this side. When I want to cut this side, I have to
turn my head around and look at this side. and then I can cut again those two sides. So when you see me going like this around
the dog it’s because actually I’m cutting here and to cut here I have to do that to cut here
I have to do that, so I hope you understand. First of all I’m combing everything down
and I’m just sliding with my hand over the coat. And now I’m just gonna use the
clippers, you know, work fast and smart! And go over where I’ve put the line earlier. The only thing you can’t do is twist your hands. So when you start twisting your hands you will
have a problem because it’s going to be crooked. So here we go. We’ve done both legs and
then you can still use the comb and go scissoring if there’s
any hairs that you’ve forgotten. It’s very quick and easy in
this way and it’s all nice and even. So I always do both feet at the same time. I don’t do one leg and then the other leg. I think
it’s better to do both at the same time. Left and right and left and right.
I switch over and then I have two similar legs. Okay, so now I’m showing you, if that’s done. I’m showing you where the legs actually start. So I go to the shoulder and I try to find that spot. And that spot I really really really do a short as possible. Sometimes there’s only this much
of hair, like half a millimeter of hair. And then I have my second point. When that place is short I go straight
down in a straight vertical line. So, that’s done. And now I’m going to start combing and scissoring and
combing and scissoring. And make sure the whole front of the leg is
straight and all the little hairs are gone. As you can see I have to do many times the same area. I keep scissoring and combing and scissoring
and combing until it’s all very nice and fine Here you can see the scissor technique. It’s like a
rolling movement and then I continue scissoring. I’m using a scissor with long blades
to do the whole area of the leg. Although it’s a small dog, but I like scissors
with long blades because it saves me time. So after we’ve done the legs straight, all the hair below the ear is going to go
very very short and very very straight. Then I’m going to leave a little bit hair on
the chest to make the nice rounded chest that will go until the tummy and the
tuck-up. That’s one nice line. So now I can have a point where
I can scissor the chest a bit rounder. And as you can see the nice place where the
shoulder was I can now join them both together. So it’s like drawing: first below
at the feet, then the shoulder, then below the ears, under the ears very
short and then blending them in together. So after you’ve done the chest and the shoulder
you can lift up the front leg. Then you can join the whole chest with the tummy
and with the chest and with the rib case. When you lift up the head it’s very easy to do that. Then you have one nice rounded area. Now we are scissoring the neck and we are scooping out the neck so the neck is nicely rounded. And the more we scoop out the neck,
the more the top line is going to be visible. Here you nicely see the technique we use for combing. And after we’ve put all the hair straight,
we can start scissoring again. I’m finishing the muzzle because I couldn’t see the face. So I’m just going to finish the muzzle with a
thinning scissor or with a blending scissor actually. And make it nice and round. And then we can continue doing the
head and the top line and the back. As you can see, again, we are combing and
scissoring and combing and scissoring. You don’t see my view, but it’s very important that
you take the hair from here and you nicely go rounded. When you see this from the
front you will see a round area. And then afterwards you can go to the side
and then instead of the front you do the side and then you can do this area. A Poodle is very nice when it has a
little bit of a hat in front of the eyes. So don’t make the line very straight. And now the ears. You can do this with the thinning
scissors or you can do this with a chunker or you can do this with the scissors. The lady wanted to have short ears, but not clipped. So we are just scissoring the ears over here . Later I will use lacquer, but now I’m just making
sure the whole head is nice and balanced. And I’m combing the hair from the left
to the right and upwards and scissoring. Making sure all the hairs are cut
nicely where they should be. Okay, let’s find where the dog is!
Where his angulation is, where his neck is. Here I’m just trying to find out
his back and once his back is done, now I see his shoulders,
I see the length of the dog. And I’ve done at his back where the tail is and
now I’m gonna find his back and his top-line and then we can finish the head, because without
this back visible it’s very difficult to finish the head. So I’m doing the back, I’m combing and
then I’m gonna bend and comb again. It’s not very straight, it’s also not very rounded. But for me it’s very important that a poodle
or a dog has a back and then a neck. So where is the difference? Well it’s actually not far away
from the back of the front legs that the neck starts. But every dog is different and, you know, more elegant, less elegant, more skinny, or you know. It’s a bit of a feeling as well. So now I’m just combing again and I
can see already that this is a short dog. Now I’m going to find, I have his back a little
bit and now I’m trying to find the top-line. And as his hair is so long at the back of
his head I’m just cutting this off as well. To make the top line and the difference
between the back and the neck visible. I’m also going to expect
the dog to stand up clearly here because because otherwise we won’t be able to
do the top-line and to make it nice. Here I’m just scooping out or sculpting
again and my view is from the front. This was my view just in the back. now I’m going parallel with the back to make
sure I still have a bit of chest on the dog So there I’m growing the top-line,
not too long, not too short. And here you see a very nice view of how I comb. The comb is very important. This
is a Yento scissoring comb I’m using. And this very fine teeth comb will straighten
each single hair and pull it upwards so you can scissor perfectly. And most importantly, after the scissor work, because it’s such a small narrow
teeth comb, the hair will stay very nice. OK, there you nicely see the chest. Nice rounded chest. It’s very important. Actually it’s very good you follow the lines of the dog. His muscles, his back, his chest, his
angulation, his natural angulation. And it’s just a way of, you know, grooming it very nicely. It’s also interesting sometimes you step back
and you see it from a few meters apart so then you can start again. As you can see it’s no problem
for scissoring here and combing. But, I haven’t told you yet, but your prep work, like your washing and bathing and drying is the most important in all this. This is your fundament and if you fundament
is well you have a very good scissor work. Here you see me using some water. It was actually some water with some
Crown Royal in, number three, for poodles. And that makes, when I use
this this fine, fine, fine mist that will help me for scissoring
and finishing the last bits. When you when you do this, just a little
bit of spray from 30 centimeters away it will help you to see the points better,
because it’s like another colour. And then it’s going to, you know, help you for finishing. So, let’s do the back legs! As you can see where the leg
folds I cut very very very short. And this is very sensitive. It’s also very scary if you’re not used to doing this. So for doing this you can use a straight
scissor, you can use a curved scissor, you can use a thinning scissor, or if you
don’t have a thinning scissor, your blender. You can use a chunker, you can use whatever
you want as long as you make it short. And then upwards I make also, the place
under the anus of the dog, very very very short. I don’t like hair at the back of the dog
because, for me, it makes the dog look long. So I’m not very worried about the angulations because if you do that automatically
you will find the angulation. Just fold the dog’s leg and where the fold is, do it
as short as possible, until you just don’t see the skin. And you can do it slowly. You can just scissor
and comb again and scissor and comb again. And if it’s difficult for the dog,
lift up his other leg like I’m doing. And gradually you will find the angulation. So now I’m standing in the back and I’m doing
the nice folded area and the outer side of the back leg. And I keep on combing and combing and combing. And slowly moulding it to a very nice angulated leg. Front I’m going to wait until
the rest of the back leg is done because there it’s very important to have knee. And there
you can see the angulation coming more. and more And now I’m doing everything again on the other side. And this is actually a very good point for you to
see because now you see the angulation coming. Combing and scissoring, holding up the leg,
folding it and in the fold very very very short again. For me it’s not possible sitting down grooming dogs because you have to see them from all the kind of views. You know, you have to turn yourself
around the legs to see all the points. You remember when I talked about the the
bottle, well, you know, as you can see I’m also all the time in front of the camera
because I have to like turn myself around the dog to be able to do the round nice conical legs. And now I’m scissoring. I haven’t told you yet but if
after half a dog or about 20 minutes into scissoring it’s very important to clean out the scissors. And cleaning out the scissors, the best thing
you can do, is with a very soft hairbrush. And this is going to take all the little hairs away and
your scissor is going to be very light again to work with. Also the tuck up is very important. Be very careful on the skin there, it’s
very sensitive and it’s very difficult. But if you go from the outside and stay
on the outside it’s not such a big problem. Like you see now. Combing again. And then you can use a chunker like I’m using now. Now I’m using the Yento Ergo Line chunker. Because that spot is very difficult to do. And I think it’s very good to do it with a
chunker because it’s not such a direct cut. With a chunker you can model
and you have like a softer finish. There you can see very nice the angulation. So there you can see the little knee there. And then short just where the toes are. Don’t forget to stand back and see the profile
from a few meters away when you’re working. And now the tail. I usually, when it’s a normal poodle tail, I take everything
down. I comb everything down and I twist it and I cut. And then I comb everything in the other
direction and I do the same thing again. I think if I don’t stop now it’s
not going to have anymore hair! So here you see, Skye is finished! And I will show you some more pictures. I hope you enjoyed our poodle video! If you have any more questions
you can write them down below. And if you like the video you can give it a
thumbs up or you can subscribe for more videos. Thank you very much and see you later!

7 thoughts on “Kitty Talks Dogs: grooming Skye the Miniature Poodle | TRANSGROOM

  1. A great video. Kitty would you be able to do one for Shelties? I'm just starting out showing a young dog and could really use some tips on how to get the best out of his coat and outline.

  2. Kitty you are awesome! Your videos are so professional and you do such a wonderful job explaining in detail! Thank you so much. I am adopting a rescue Standard Poodle and will need all the help I can get. Blessings to you!

  3. Great video and great grooming <3 it turns out so nice 🙂 can you please do video about clippers? What is the difference between size of the clippers?And what sizes are used for which parts?Thank you 🙂

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